Bookworm, Issue 28
The Book: Isola by Allegra Goodman
In 1542 Marguerite de la Rocque de Roberval, a young French noblewoman, was marooned with her lover on a small, uninhabited island off the coast of Canada. Few historical records exist about her two years there, but author Allegra Goodman richly reimagines this remarkable story in Isola. Marguerite is left to die, a punishment that far outweighs her alleged crime; nevertheless, she resolves to thrive.
Goodman’s portrayal of French nobility, life at sea, and island wilderness helps us grasp the enormity of Marguerite’s accomplishments at a time when women were subservient to men, the rich oppressed the poor, and religion held sway over science. But the novel excels as a work of historical fiction on the strength of Marguerite’s character and her transformation from a pampered heiress to a self-sufficient woman.
I’ve paired Isola with a full-bodied red wine that corresponds to Marguerite’s evolving sense of self – from powerless to powerful. Suitable to accompany her newfound independence, confidence, and determination, this blend from France’s southern Rhône Valley is brimming with ripe red fruit and spice.
Marguerite is orphaned at age three and left in the care of her nurse Damienne, while her uncle and guardian Jean-Francois de la Rocque de Roberval oversees her sizable inheritance. At her chateau in Périgod, impulsive and spirited Marguerite is taught “how to live and be a lady.” She learns to read and write and fills her days with scripture study, music, and embroidery. But by the time Marguerite is 17, Roberval, a voyager and the King’s friend, has spent most of her fortune, including her wedding dowry.
When Roberval commands three ships of colonists to “New France,” he takes 20-year-old Marguerite with him. Historical records do not explain why, but perhaps, she was to be his mistress? Sixteenth century French society was shaped by the Catholic Church and ruled by men, especially men whom the King favored; women, even educated noblewomen, were powerless. Roberval makes clear to Marguerite that he is not to be crossed, and so she has no choice but to accompany him.
Goodman builds the first half of her novel slowly, steadily foreshadowing Marguerite’s grim future at the hands of a vengeful man who demands obedience. But there’s a glimmer of hope when Roberval’s young secretary, Auguste Dupré, declares his “admiration” to Marguerite. They meet clandestinely aboard the ship, but when their relationship is discovered, it’s no surprise that the punishment is severe.
Roberval abandons Auguste, Marguerite, and Damienne on an island in the Gulf of St. Lawrence as he sails onward to Canada. From this point forward, the plot moves quickly as the three struggle daily for fresh water, food, and shelter. But “imprisoned” on the island, Marguerite also experiences freedom. “Roberval had punished us with what we wanted most. We longed for time; he gave us eternity. We craved space and privacy; he gave us both.”
Contradictions abound as Marguerite experiences nature’s power and severity, as well as its beauty and mystery. About the sea, she observes, “What is constant and ever-changing? What confines and consoles at the same time?” Marguerite, too, changes in the face of hardship and discovers purpose, strength, and faith – in God and in herself. Amidst the wilderness, despite great danger and despair, for the first time in her life, she feels secure.
The Wine: Domaine de Font-Sane, Tradition, Gigondas, France, 2022 $25.99
Swirl and sip this ruby red Gigondas and imagine the tasting experience as a (pleasing, not unnerving) walk along a tightrope. The wire is taunt between two points – power and elegance – and with only a slight sway, you make your way, maintaining perfect balance. Just like this classic Rhône-style red blend.
The wine certainly has muscle – strong spicy flavors, 14.5% ABV, and persistent, fine-grained tannins – but not at the expense of uplifting acidity, vibrant fruit characters, and nuanced sweet and savory notes. On the nose and palate, find ripe red and black cherries, raspberry preserves, red plum, black pepper, clove, anise, dried thyme, blood orange, and leather. Concentrated, complex, with a lingering, spice-driven finish, this wine embodies polish and power.
From the Gigondas appellation in France’s southern Rhône Valley, the wine is 72% Grenache, 23% Syrah, 3% Mourvèdre, and 2% Cinsault. Grapes are hand-harvested, fermented for 21 days, and aged 8 months in oak casks. Serve at 61-64 F.
Domaine de Font-Sane is a small, family-run, sustainable estate whose winemaking tradition dates back to 1860. Experienced and intuitive winemaker Veronique Cunty-Peysson took over from her father and now runs the domaine with her husband Bernard and their son Romain.
The vineyards of Gigondas cover the hilly landscape below the Dentelles de Montmirail, a series of jagged limestone formations visible from the village and neighboring appellations. The soil here is special; consisting of five different types including clay-limestone, pebbly, sandy, alluvium, and sandy loam, that contribute complexity to the village’s wines.
Why the pairing works:
At the start of Isola, young Marguerite knows little of the world outside her chateau, and her only real concern is her loneliness. But slowly, she begins to understand her precarious position as a young woman at the mercy of her unscrupulous uncle.
Neither her noble birth, wealth, nor education can save her from Roberval, a friend of the King and a voyager seeking new territory and riches for France. Marguerite rightly concludes, “I was sport for him, and he enjoyed catching me. Like a hunter, he might slit my throat, or tie me up, or carry me off just as he liked. I might struggle; even so, he would possess me.”
Isola is a novel about power, exemplified in the relationship between Marguerite and Roberval, but also in the relationships between the nobility and their servants. Additionally, in sixteenth century France, the Catholic Church’s authority is unquestionable, and Roberval uses religion to secure Marguerite’s cooperation.
But in reimagining Marguerite’s story, author Allegra Goodman cleverly shifts the power dynamic in favor of our heroine. The wine, Domaine de Font-Sane Tradition Gigondas, is from France, and the 2022 vintage is youthful, like Marguerite. On the nose and palate, its robust and flavorful nature corresponds with Marguerite’s newfound independence, strength, and courage.
This classic Rhône GSM (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre) blend is full-bodied with high alcohol and persistent fine-grained tannins. But, it’s not all bravado as elevated acidity and ripe red fruit and spice provide lift and complexity. This Gigondas demonstrates how to balance power with elegance, more similar to Marguerite’s character than that of her ruthless uncle.