Bookworm, Issue 35
The Book: The Forgotten Sense: The New Science of Smell – and the Extraordinary Power of the Nose by Jonas Olofsson
Our sense of smell greatly shapes how we experience the world, more than we might expect in this “age of sight,” writes author and smell researcher Jonas Olofsson in The Forgotten Sense. Smell is linked to memory and emotion and is not a passive sense, as once believed, but a process that begins in the brain. And though much about human olfaction remains a mystery, Olofsson suggests that smell might be our most sensitive sense.
The author, a cognitive scientist, has devoted 20 years to researching smell, and in this slim and accessible book, he employs entertaining studies, relatable anecdotes, and even fun exercises, to help us better understand how our sense of smell works. If you love wine and you love science, like I do, or if you want to strengthen or regain a lost sense of smell, this book is for you.
While Olofsson supports his assertions with scientific evidence, my wine pairing is decidedly subjective. I chose a wine that smells delightful, to me, and I encourage you to follow your own nose. Regardless of your choice, pay close attention to the aromas you detect in the glass. While our sense of smell is powerful, we often struggle to put those aromas into words.
My favorite passages in the book are those related to wine, including a story about Swedish researchers studying fruit flies. They asked a group of wine tasters to try to smell the female fruit flies’ pheromones, and the group could – amazingly, only one-billionth of a gram was necessary. Olofsson also describes how humans smell through the nose when we sniff (orthonasal) as well as through the throat when we eat or drink (retronasal), both of which are essential when evaluating wine.
Human olfactory sensitivity is not fully understood, but we do know that our sense of smell enriches our lives. So, I want to share with you two smelling exercises Olofsson recommends to help recover and/or to improve our sense of smell.
The author advises “olfactory training” to regain a lost or altered sense of smell. The simple exercise takes 5-10 minutes, once or twice a day. Start with four household scents you enjoy, and smell each 2-3 times. Lemon, eucalyptus, rose, and clove are commonly used in studies, but others work, too. Continue for at least four months, swapping your scents every two weeks to prevent boredom. (You can even participate in Olofsson’s study here: https://www.smelltrainingapp.com/)
I blind taste wines regularly to sharpen my sense of smell and improve my assessment abilities. Interestingly, new studies link brain training with smells to improved brain function in other tasks. To train with smells, play a game similar to the children’s game Memory – but rather than matching up picture cards, Olofsson’s game involves pairing scents. You’ll need 24 identical tins, filling two each with pleasant-smelling household items. “As you practice, concentrate on the smells and think about the thoughts and feelings they evoke.” After a few weeks of training, try the matching game again with different scents.
I’m curious to play the game myself using spices, dried herbs, coffee, and tea. I hope to get better at wine tasting, but scientists are more ambitious. Olofsson cites one study linking smell training to “positive effects on both cognitive abilities and well-being” as we age.
The Wine: Ettore Germano, Hérzu, Langhe Riesling, Piedmont, Italy 2021 $39.99
Lush yet lively, an outstanding off-dry Riesling whose character shifts, unfolding like the seasons. Focused and refreshing as a cold winter’s day, then rich and fragrant like a hazy summer afternoon. Aromatically complex with notes of pineapple, ripe peach, banana, ripe cantaloupe, petrol, orange blossom, lemongrass, lemon thyme, wet stone, and a hint of honey.
High acidity balances the nearly-full body and pronounced flavor intensity. Additions on the palate include yellow grapefruit, candied mango, and ginger with residual sugar that is felt more than tasted. Integrated fruit flavors and a vibrant, mouthwatering sensation linger throughout a long finish.
This wine envelops the senses and requests your presence. Lie on the cold snow, roll in the green grass, stare at the blue sky, and for a moment, allow yourself to pleasantly drift away from the noise of the world.
Ettore Germano’s Hérzu is 100% Riesling from Cigliè, a small village in Alta Langa. Southwest-facing vineyards with stony, calcerous soil sit between 1650-1870 feet. The vines were planted in 1995. Grapes are hand-harvested, lightly crushed, and gently pressed before a cool fermentation in stainless steel. A fraction of the fruit is affected by botrytis, resulting in a small amount of residual sugar in the wine. Producer Sergio Germano dares to call his Riesling a ‘white Barolo,” for it provides him with the same satisfaction as the region’s famous red wines made from Nebbiolo.
See beautiful photos of the vineyards on the producer’s website.
Why the pairing works:
Riesling is an aromatic white grape known for pronounced and expressive aromas. Notice how you can smell the wine before your nose is fully in the glass. Other aromatic varieties include Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, and Torrontés. Winemakers commonly handle these grapes carefully and make choices in the winery that help preserve pure fruit and floral aromas and flavors.
Ettore Germano Hérzu, and others made with Riesling, captivates me partially because I enjoy the petrol aroma it exhibits. But smell is “deeply personal,” and so when someone asks, “What is your favorite wine?” we all answer differently.
Genetics explains part of the difference, according to Olofsson in The Forgotten Sense, but our sense of smell is “influenced by our hunger and thirst and by past memories and associations,” and it reflects “[our] history, culture, and desires.” Our sense of smell develops in childhood, beginning in the womb; so unsurprisingly, adults have difficulty remembering new smells.
Smell sensitivity varies widely, and “if it takes ten molecules for you to detect a certain smell, it may take a million molecules for your friend.” Therefore, I encourage you to taste and talk about wine with other people. Form a tasting group with friends and challenge yourself to identify aromas and flavors (and structural components). This is the best way to learn about wine and to remember those lessons.
Lately, I have enjoyed learning more about the chemical compounds that give wine familiar and recognizable aromas and flavors. Many of the aroma compounds found in grapes are found elsewhere in nature. Methoxypyrazines, for example, can smell like green bell pepper, tomato leaf, or asparagus. You’ll often notice these aromas in Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, since they’re detectable in small concentrations.
To dig into this (complex) topic more deeply, I recommend following wine educator and sensory scientist Sietze Wijma at The Art of Tasting on Instagram and YouTube. He is very knowledgeable and breaks down the science behind the smell in ways that are fun and approachable.
Another resource I want to recommend are these aroma charts from Wine Folly. When I’m struggling to identify aromas and flavors, these suggestions always jumpstart my brain.
And finally, I’ll leave you with a quote from The Forgotten Sense, in which Olofsson explains our sometimes powerful emotions around food and drink:
(W)ine experts and master chefs show what an amazing world opens up when our sense of smell works with the rest of the brain. When we use our knowledge to refine our ability to enjoy food and drink. It’s a world that doesn’t actually require superhuman sensory abilities. It is accessible to us…Wine and food always have a story. The experience is not just a passive reaction to the chemicals and other sensory impressions you encounter, but to how your brain interprets them.